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 ___________________________  Basic Golf Cart Battery Facts
Did you know?........... Deep Cycle BatteriesA good quality deep cycle lead acid battery
will cost between $50 and $200 and, if properly maintained, will give you at least 150 deep discharge cycles. The purpose
of a deep cycle battery is to provide power for trolling motors, golf carts, forklift trucks, uninterruptible power supplies
(UPS), and other accessories for marine and recreational vehicle (RV), commercial and stationary applications. Dead batteries
almost always occur at the most inopportune times: across the lake, during bad weather, or on the 17th tee. . .
click here to download SULFATION GUIDE - 1 page
Sulfation – Why it may be killing your battery. It has long been known that Golf Car as well as other application lead-acid
batteries, sealed AGM or flooded (wet cell-filler caps), when used infrequently, lose power and have shorter lives than those used
on a more regular-daily basis. Why should
this be? It is counter-intuitive. Something else must be going on that is not seen or readily understood. The major “unseen” is “sulfation”, a build-up of lead
sulfate crystals causing “bad things” to
begin happening leading to loss of cranking power, longer charging times, excessive heat build-up leading to “boil out”, shorter running times between charges and lastly,
dramatically shorter battery life. It is however, not the
only reason a battery fails. Because there
are numerous causes of battery failure, it is difficult to determine the present “health” of a failing battery. It is long known and widely accepted that the single
largest cause of early battery failure is “sulfation”.
It is however not the only cause. The job of a VDC Electronics or any company concerned with helping extend the usefulness of batteries, is to accurately guide the user in determining whether
desulfating his battery will bring it back
to “good” health. There are conditions that exist that render a battery beyond “recover”. These cannot be easily determined, without destroying the battery in
the process. Thus, at times, desulfating it won’t
make it “good” again. Do we just tell the owners of the hundreds of thousands of batteries that can be “saved” from early failure, due to sulfation, to not even
“give it a shot”? Seven (7) years of producing more than forty thousand (40,000) charger-maintainer-desulfator units per year, tells us we should not stop
our efforts. Can we do a better job? We
can always do a better job, so long as we continue to have the desire and knowledge to do Conclusion:
de-sulfating batteries, via high frequency-high energy electronic pulses works at removing sulfate from any type lead-acid battery, sealed or wet cell. By doing so, otherwise healthy batteries,
those which have lost no more than 20% of
their power*, can expect improvement to an 85% or greater level of performance. As with our own bodies, prevention beats rehab, every time. With BatteryMINDers’ ability to
fully charge, without ever overcharging,
no matter how long left connected, there is no reason sulfation should ever become an issue. Further, without sulfation ever reaching damaging levels and the battery never subjected to
overcharging, life and performance can be
expected to be several folds better than any battery left to self-discharge, as is typical of so many golf car batteries. “The
proper use of a non-Aircraft Specific BatteryMINDer ensures the longest performance life of any golf car battery, sealed or wet (filler caps). Our unconditional Guarantee and 5-year
full parts and labor warranty, should tell
most that, we ‘walk the walk’”. *As determined by electrolyte specific gravity
and/or no load battery voltage after “resting” battery for 10-12 hours.
click here to download FAQ GUIDE - 27 pages
DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 4.0 A word of caution: Lead-acid batteries contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte, which is a highly corrosive poison and will produce gasses when recharged and explode if ignited. This will hurt you--BAD! When
working with batteries, you need to have plenty of ventilation, remove
your jewelry, wear protective eyewear (safety glasses) and
clothing, and exercise caution. Do not allow
battery electrolyte to mix with salt water. Even small quantities of this
combination will produce chorine gas that can KILL you! Whenever possible, please follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing, charging and This FAQ assumes a 12-volt, six cell, negative grounded,
lead acid battery found in most recreational
applications in North America. For six-volt batteries, divide the voltage by two; for eight-volt batteries, divide by 1.5; for 24-volt batteries, double the voltage; and for 48-volt batteries, multiple by four. . 1.
WHAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE? 1.1. Remove the surface charge before testing and check specific gravity in each cell. (Please see Section 3.) 1.2. Buy the freshest and largest ampere-hour battery that will fit your requirements. (Please see Section 4.) 1.3. Perform preventive maintenance, especially during hot weather. (Please 1.4. Shallower the average discharge, the longer the total battery life. (Please see Section 7.5.) 1.5. Temperature matters! Heat kills batteries and cold reduce the available
Because only the rich can afford cheap batteries..... A good quality deep cycle lead acid battery will cost between $50 and
$200 and, if properly maintained, will give
you at least 150 deep discharge cycles. The purpose
of a deep cycle battery is to provide power for trolling motors, golf carts, fork lift trucks, uninterruptible power supplies (UPS), and other accessories for marine and recreational vehicle (RV), commercial and stationary applications. Dead batteries almost always occur at the most inopportune times: across
the lake, during bad weather, or on
the 17th tee. 2.1. How is a battery made? There is an excellent description of how battery is made at the Battery Council International (BCI) web site at http://www.battery.council.org/made.html. A twelve-volt car battery is made up of six cells, each producing 2.1 volts and that are connected in series from positive to negative. Each cell is made up of an element containing positive plates that are all connected together and negative plates, which are also all connected together. They are individually separated with thin sheets of electrically insulating, porous material “envelopes” [labeled #3 in the diagram below] that are
used as spacers between the positive (usually
light orange) and negative (usually slate gray)
plates to keep them from electrically shorting to each other. The plates [#2 in the diagram below], within a cell, alternate with a positive plate, a negative plate and so on. A plate is made up of a metal grid
that serves as the supporting framework
for the active porous material that is “pasted”
on it. In Europe, using solid lead positive “Plante” plates is After the “curing” of the
plates, they are made up into cells, and the cells are
inserted into a high-density tough polypropylene or hard rubber case [#1 in the diagram above]. The cells are connected to the terminals [#5 in the diagram above], and the case is covered and then filled with a
dilute sulfuric acid electrolyte [#4 in
the diagram above]. The battery is initially charged or “formed” to convert yellow
Lead Oxide (PbO or Litharge) into Lead Peroxide (PbO2), which is usually dark brown or
black. The electrolyte is replaced and the battery
is given a finishing charge. Some batteries
are “dry charged” meaning that the batteries are shipped without electrolyte and it is added and recharged when they are put into service. Two important considerations in battery construction
are porosity and diffusion. Porosity is
the pits and tunnels in the plate that allows the sulphuric
acid to get to the interior of the plate. Diffusion is the spreading, intermingling and mixing of one fluid with another. When you are using your battery, the fresh acid needs to be in contact with the plate
material and the water generated needs to
be carried away from the plate. The larger
the pores or warmer the temperature, the better the diffusion. 2.2. How does a battery work? A more detailed description of how
a battery works can be found on the BCI
web site at http://www.batterycouncil.org/works.html. A battery is created by alternating two different metals such as Lead Dioxide (PbO2),
the positive plates, and Sponger lead (Pb), the negative plates. Then
the plates are immersed in diluted Sulfuric
Acid (H2SO4 ), the electrolyte. The types of metals and
the electrolyte used will determine the output of a cell.
A typical lead-acid battery produces approximately 2.1 volts per cell. The chemical action between the metals and the electrolyte creates the electrical energy. Energy flows from the battery as soon as there is
an electrical load, for example, a starter
motor that completes a circuit between the
positive and negative terminals. The electrical current flows as charged portions of acid (ions) between the battery plates and as electrons through the external circuit. The action of the lead-acid storage battery is determined by chemicals used, State-of-Charge, temperature, porosity, diffusion, and load determine the action of the lead-acid
storage 2.3. Why do batteries die? In cold climates, a battery normally “ages” as the active positive plate material sheds (or flakes off) due to the expansion and contraction
that occurs during the discharge and recharge
cycles. A brown sediment, sludge or
“mud,” builds
up in the bottom of the case and can short the cell out.
In hot climates, additional causes of failure are positive grid growth, positive grid metal corroding in the electrolyte, negative grid shrinks, plates buckling, and loss of water. Deep discharges, heat, vibration,
over charging, under charging and non-usage
accelerate this “aging” process. Another
major cause of premature battery failure is lead sulfation. Please see Section 12 for more information on sulfation. Using tap water to refill batteries can produce calcium sulfate, which also will coat the plates
and fill pores. Recharging a sulfated battery
is like trying to wash your hands with gloves
on. When the active material in the plates can no longer sustain a discharge current, and the battery “dies”. Most of the “defective” batteries returned to manufacturers during free placement warranty periods are good. This suggests that most sellers
of new batteries do not know how to or fail
to take the time to properly load 3. HOW DO I TEST A BATTERY? There are six simple steps in testing a deep cycle
battery: inspect, recharge, remove surface
charge, measure the state-of-charge, load test, and recharge. If you have a non-sealed battery, it is highly recommended that you use a good quality temperature compensated hydrometer; these can be purchased
at an auto parts store for between $5 and
$20. A hydrometer is a float type device used
to determine the state-of-charge by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell. It is a very accurate way of determining a battery's stateof- charge and its weak or dead cells. To troubleshoot charging or electrical systems or if you have a sealed battery, you will need a digital voltmeter
with 0.5% or better accuracy. A digital
voltmeter can be purchased at an electronics store
like Radio Shack for between $20 and $200. Analog voltmeters are not accurate enough to measure the millivolt differences of a battery's state-ofcharge or the output of the charging system. The purchase of a battery load tester is optional; if you use a golf cart or electric trolling motor
every day, buy one. A more accurate way
of testing the capacity of a lead acid battery is by using
a conductance tester, such as a Midtronics. Visually inspect for obvious problems.
For example, is there a loose or broken
alternator belt, electrolyte levels below the top of the plates, corroded or swollen cables, corroded terminal clamps, dirty or wet battery top, loose hold-down clamps, loose cable terminals, or leaking or If the electrolyte levels are low in non-sealed batteries, allow the battery to cool and add distilled
water to the level indicated by the
battery manufacturer. If this is not indicated,
use 1/4 inch (7 mm) below the bottom of the
plastic filler tube (vent wells). The plates need to be covered at all times. Avoid overfilling, especially in hot climates, because heat will cause the electrolyte to expand and overflow. Recharge
the battery to 100% state-of-charge. If the battery has a difference of .03 specific gravity reading between the lowest and highest cell, then you should equalize it. (Please see Section 6.) 3.3. REMOVE SURFACE CHARGE Surface
charge is the uneven mixture of sulfuric acid and water within the surface of the plates as a result of charging or discharging. It will make a weak battery appear good or a good battery appear bad. You need to eliminate the surface charge by one of the following methods: 3.3.1. Allow the battery to sit for four to twelve hours to allow for
the surface charge to dissipate. 3.3.2. Apply a load that is 33% of the ampere-hour capacity for five minutes and wait five to ten minutes. 3.3.3. With a battery load tester, apply a load of at least one half the battery's CCA rating for 15 seconds and wait five to ten minutes. 3.4. MEASURE THE STATE-OF-CHARGE If the battery's electrolyte is above 110° F (43.3° C), allow it to cool. To determine the battery's state-of-charge with the battery's electrolyte temperature at 80° F (26.7° C), use the following table. The
table assumes that a 1.265 specific gravity
reading is a fully charged, wet, lead acid
battery. For other electrolyte temperatures, use the Temperature Compensation table below to adjust the Open Circuit Voltage or Specific Gravity readings. The Open Circuit Voltage will vary for gel cell and
AGM type batteries, so check the manufacturer's
specifications. 11.89 Discharged 1.120 -10° F Electrolyte temperature compensation, depending on
the battery manufacturer's recommendations,
will vary. If you are using a nontemperature compensated HYDROMETER, make the adjustments indicated
in the table above. For example, at 30° F (-1.1° C), the specific gravity reading would be 1.245 for a 100% State-of-Charge. At 100° F (37.8° C), the specific gravity would be 1.273 for 100% State-of-
Charge. This is why using a temperature
compensated hydrometer is highly recommended
and more accurate than other means. If you are using a DIGITAL VOLTMETER, make the adjustments indicated in the table above.
For example, at 30° F (-1.1° C), the voltage reading would be 12.53 for a 100% State-of-Charge. At 100° F (37.8° C), the voltage would be 12.698 for 100% State-of-Charge. For non-sealed batteries, check the specific gravity
in each cell with a hydrometer and average
the readings. For sealed batteries, measure the Open
Circuit Voltage across the battery terminals with an accurate digital voltmeter. This is the only way you can determine the State-of-Charge. Some batteries have a built-in hydrometer, which only measures the State-of-Charge in one
of its six cells. If the built-in indicator
is clear or light yellow, then the battery has a
low electrolyte level and should be refilled
and recharged before proceeding. If sealed, the battery is toast and should be replaced. If the State-of-Charge is below
75% using either the specific gravity or voltage test or the built-in hydrometer indicates “bad” (usually dark), then the battery needs to be recharged beforeproceeding. You should replace the battery, if one or more of the following conditions occur: 3.4.1.
If there is a .05 (sometimes expressed as 50 “points”) or more difference in the specific gravity reading between the highest and lowest cell, you have a weak or dead cell(s). 3.4.2. If the battery will not recharge to a 75% or more state-of-charge level or if the built-in hydrometer still does not indicate “good”
(usually green, which is 65% state-of-charge
or better). If you know that a battery has
spilled or “bubbled over” and the electrolyte
has been replaced with water, you can replace the old electrolyte
with new electrolyte and go back to Step 3.2 above. Battery electrolyte is a mixture of 25% sulfuric acid and distilled water. It is cheaper to replace the electrolyte than to buy a new battery. 3.4.3. If digital voltmeter indicates 0 volts, you have an open cell. 3.4.4. If the digital voltmeter indicates 10.45 to 10.65 volts, you
probably have a shorted cell or a severely
discharged battery. A shorted cell is caused by plates touching, sediment (“mud”) build-up or “ treeing” If the battery is fully charged or has a “good” built-in hydrometer indication, then you can test the capacity of the battery by applying a known load
and measuring the time it take to discharge
the battery until 20% capacity is remaining.
Normally a discharge rate that will discharge a battery in 20 hours can be used. For example, if you have an 80-ampere-hour rated battery, then a load of four amps would discharge the battery in approximately 20 hours (or 16 hours down to the 20% level). New batteries can take up to 50 charge/discharge cycles before they reach their rated capacity. Depending on your application, batteries with
80% or less of their original capacity are
considered to be bad. If the battery passes the load test, you should recharge it as soon
as possible to restore it to peak performance
and to prevent lead sulfation.. 4. WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN BUYING A NEW BATTERY? 4.1. Ampere-Hour (or Reserve Capacity) Rating The most important consideration in buying a deep cycle battery is
the Ampere-Hour (AH) or Reserve Capacity
(or Reserve Minutes) rating that will meet
or exceed your requirements and how much weight you can carry. Most deep cycle batteries are rated
in discharge rates of 100 hours, 20 hours, or 8
hours. The higher the discharge, the lower the capacity due to the Peukert Effect and the internal resistance of the battery. Reserve Capacity (RC) is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80° F (26.7° C) is discharged at 25 amps before the voltage
falls below 10.5 volts. To convert Reserve
Capacity (RC) to Ampere-Hours at the 25 amp
rate, multiple RC by .4167. More ampere-hours (or RC) are better
in every case. Within a BCI group size, the battery
with higher amperehours (or RC) will tend
to have longer lives and weigh more because of thicker
plates and more lead. The following graph
shows the effects of temperature on the capacity of a CAPACITY vs. TEMPERATURE °C If more ampere-hours are required, two new and identical six-volt batteries can be connected in series
(positive terminal of Battery One to
the negative terminal of Battery Two). Two (or more)
new and identical 12- volt batteries
can be connected in parallel. If you connect two 12-volt batteries
in parallel and they are identical in type, age and capacity, you can potentially double you original capacity. If you connect two that are not the same type, you will either overcharge the smaller of the two,
or you will undercharge the larger of the
two. The recommended parallel and series
connections are as follows: [Source: Interstate Batteries] When connected this way, the batteries will discharge and recharge equally. When connecting in series or parallel and to prevent recharging problems, do not
mix old and new batteries or ones of different types. Cable lengths should be kept short and cable must
be sized large enough to prevent significant
voltage drop; there should be a maximum of 0.2 volts (200
millivolts) or less drop between batteries. Car batteries are especially designed
for high initial cranking amps (usually
200 to 400 amps for five to 15 seconds) to start a car and for shallow (10% or less) discharges. They are not designed for deep cycle discharges. Deep cycle (and marine) batteries are designed for prolonged discharges at lower current and not for high current discharges. The plates
in a car battery are more porous and thinner than in deep cycle batteries and use sponges or expanded metal grids instead of solid lead. A deep cycle battery will typically outlast two to
ten car batteries when used in deep cycle
applications. In warm weather, starting an engine will typically
consume less that 5% of a car battery's capacity. In contrast, deep cycle (or marine) batteries are used for applications that will consume between 20 and 80% of the battery's capacity. A “dual” or starting marine battery is a compromise between a car and a deep cycle battery that is specially designed for marine applications.
A deep cycle or “dual marine”
battery will work as a starting battery if it can produce
enough current to start the engine, but not as well as a car battery. For saltwater applications, AGM or gel cell batteries are highly recommended to prevent chorine gas. For RVs, a car battery is normally used to start the engine and a deep cycle battery is used to power the RV accessories. The batteries are connected to a diode isolator. When the RV's charging system is running, both batteries are automatically recharged. An excellent and easy to understand free booklet on multi-battery applications, “Introduction
to Batteries and Charging Systems”,
can be downloaded from http://www.surepower.com/ebrochures.html or
obtained by calling (800) 845-6269 or (503) 692-5360. The two most common types of deep cycle batteries are flooded (also known as wet or liquid electrolyte) cell and valve regulated (VR).
These types are divided into Marine and
RV batteries. There are 50% depth-ofdischarge limits
and sponge lead plates batteries, and there are the more expensive Deep Cycle (traction and stationary) batteries with 80% depthof- discharge limits, solid lead plates, and longer lives. 4.2.1. Flooded (Wet) Cell Flooded
cell deep cycle batteries are divided, like their car battery counterparts, into low maintenance (the most common) and maintenance free (or sealed), which is based on their plate formulation. Low maintenance batteries
have lead-antimony/antimony or lead-antimony/calcium
(dual alloy or hybrid) plates; the maintenance free
batteries use lead-calcium/calcium. The advantages of
maintenance free batteries are less preventive maintenance,
up to 250% less water loss, faster recharging,
greater overcharge resistance, reduced terminal
corrosion, up to 40% more life cycles, and up
to 200% less self discharge. However, they are more prone to deep discharge (dead battery) failures due
to increased shedding of active plate material and
development of a barrier layer between the active
plate material and the grid metal. Further, if sealed, they
tend to have a shorter life in hot climates because
lost water cannot be replaced. Automobile
industry liability lawyers prefer this type of battery
because consumers are less likely to be injured. Finally, maintenance free batteries are generally more expensive than low Gas-recombinant Valve Regulated
Lead-Acid (VRLA) batteries are generally
divided into two groups, gel cell and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM). VRLA batteries are spill proof, so they can be used in semienclosed areas, are totally maintenance free, and have a longer shelf life. Their greatest disadvantage is the high initial cost (two to three times) but arguably can have an overall lower total cost of ownership due to a longer lifetime and no “watering” labor
costs, only if they are properly maintained and recharged. In
North America, a Battery Council International (BCI) group number (e.g., U1, 24, 27, 31, 8D, etc.) is based on the physical case size, terminal placement and terminal polarity. In Europe, the EN, IKC, Italian CEI, and German
DIN standards are used and in Asia, the Japanese JIS standard is used. Within a group, the ampere-hour or
RC ratings, warranty and battery type will vary
in models of the same brand or from brand to brand. You
can also find BCI size information online at http://www.exidebatteries.com/bci.cfm. Generally, batteries are sold by model, and some of the group numbers are sold for the same price. This means that for the same money you can potentially buy a physically
larger battery with more ampere-hour or
RC than the battery you are replacing. Be
sure that the replacement battery will fit, the cables will correct to the correct terminals, and that the terminals will not touch anything else. There are six types of battery terminals: SAE Post, GM Side, “L”,
Stud, combination SAE and Stud, and combination
SAE Post and GM Side. For automotive applications,
the SAE Post is the most popular, followed by GM
Side and then the combination “dual” SAE Post and GM Side. “L” terminal is used on some European cars, motorcycles, lawn and garden devices, snowmobiles, and other light duty vehicles. Stud terminals are used on heavy duty and deep cycle batteries. The positive SAE Post terminal is slightly larger (by 1/16”) than the negative one.
Terminal locations and polarity will vary. Determining the “freshness” of a battery is sometimes difficult. Never buy
a non-sealed wet lead-acid battery that is more than three
months old or a sealed wet lead-acid battery that is more
than six months old. This is because by then it has started to sulfate unless it has periodically been recharged (this is not the usual practice of many retailers) or it is “dry charged”. The exceptions to this recommendation are AGM and Gel
Cell batteries, which can be stored up to
12 months before the state-of-charge drops
80% or below. Please see Section 12 for more information on sulfation. Dealers will often place their older batteries in storage racks so they will sell first. The new batteries can often be found in the rear of the rack or in a storage room. The date of manufacture is stamped on the case or printed on a sticker. Some of the manufacturer's date coding techniques are as follows: 4.4.1. Delphi (AC Delco and some Sears DieHard) Dates are stamped on the cover near one post. The first number is the year. The second character is the month A-M, skipping I. The last two characters indicate geographic areas. Example 0BN3=2000 February. [Source: Interstate Batteries] Douglas
uses the letters of their name to indicate the year of manufacture
and the digits 1-12 for the month. D=1994 O=1995 U=1996
G=1997 L=1998 A=1999 S=2000 Example S02=2000 Feb. 4.4.3.
East Penn, GNB (Champion), and Johnson Controls Inc. (Interstate Usually
on a sticker or hot-stamped on the side of the case. A=January,
B=February, and the letter I is skipped. The number next to the letter is the year of shipment. Example B0=Feb 2000 [Source: Interstate Batteries] 4.4.4. Exide (some Sears non-Gold DieHards) The fourth or fifth character is the month. The following numeric character is the year. A-M skipping I. Example RO8B0B=Feb. 2000. [Source: Interstate Batteries] Stamp
on post, 2 Months after manufacture date. If
you cannot determine the date code, ask the dealer or contact the manufacturer. Like bread, fresher is definitely better and does matter. As with tire warranties, battery warranties are not
necessarily indicative of the quality or cost over the life of the battery. Some dealers will
prorate warranties based on the list price
of the bad battery, so if a battery failed half
way or more through its warranty period, buying a new battery outright
might cost you less than paying the difference under a prorated warranty. The exception to this is the free replacement warranty and represents the risk that the manufacturer is willing to assume. A longer free replacement warranty period is better.. 5. HOW DO I INSTALL A BATTERY? 5.1. Thoroughly wash and clean the old battery, battery
terminals and case or tray with warm water
to minimize problems from acid or corrosion. Heavy
corrosion can be neutralized with a mixture of one pound of baking soda to one gallon of warm water. Wear safety goggles and, using a stiff brush, brush away from yourself. Also, mark the cables so you do not forget which one to reconnect. 5.2. Turn off all electrical switches in the vehicle and shut off the ignition switch. Disable any alarm systems. Remove the NEGATIVE cable
first because this will minimize the possibility
of shorting the battery when you remove
the other cable. Secure the negative cable so that it cannot "spring" loose and make electrical contact. Next remove the POSITIVE cable and then the hold-down bracket or clamp. If
the hold down bracket is severely corroded,
replace it. Dispose of the old battery by exchanging it
when you buy your new one or by taking it to a recycling center. According to BCI, over 96% of the old battery lead is recycled, making batteries one of the most completely recycled of all recycled items. Please remember that batteries contain large amounts of harmful lead
and acid, so please dispose of your old
battery properly for safety and to protect
our fragile environment. 5.3. After removing
the old battery, be sure that the battery tray or box and cable
terminals or connectors are clean. Auto parts stores sell a cheap wire brush that will allow you to clean the inside of terminal clamps and the terminals. If the terminals, cables or hold-down brackets are severely corroded, replace them. Corroded terminals or swollen cables will significantly reduce starting capability. 5.4.
Use paraffin oil-soaked felt washer pads found at auto parts stores or thinly coat the terminal, terminal clamps and exposed metal around the battery with a high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to prevent corrosion. Do not use the felt or metal washers between the mating conductive surfaces with side, stud or "L" terminal batteries. Use of stainless steel and other metal washers and bolts have also caused problems with electrolysis and high resistance. 5.5.
Place the replacement battery so that the NEGATIVE cable will connect to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal. Reversing the
polarity of the electrical system will severely damage DESTROY it. It can even cause the battery 5.6. After replacing the hold-down bracket, reconnect the cables in reverse order, i.e., attach the POSITIVE cable first and then the NEGATIVE cable 5.7. Before using the battery, check the electrolyte levels and add distilled water to cover the plates. Check the state-of-charge and recharge if necessary. Then recheck the electrolyte levels after the battery has cooled and top off with distilled water as required, but do not overfill.. 7. CAN I INCREASE THE LIFE OF MY BATTERY? The typical life of a deep cycle battery is: Starting (Used as a deep cycle) 0
to 12 months Gelled
Deep Cycle to 8 years Telecommunications (Float) to 10 years Industrial (Traction) to 20 years Industrial (Stationary) to 20 years 7.1. Recharging slowly
and keeping your battery well maintained
are the best ways
to extend the life of your battery. 7.2. Recharge a deep
cycle battery as soon as possible after each use to 7.3. In warmer climates and during the summer,
“watering” is
required more often. Check the electrolyte levels and add distilled water,
if required. Never add electrolyte to a battery that is
not fully charged'just add distilled water and do not overfill. The plates must be covered
at all times. 7.4. High ambient temperatures (above 80%deg; F [26.7°
C]) will shorten battery life because it increases positive
grid corrosion and growth. 7.5. Shallower the average depth-of-discharge
(DoD), increases the battery life. For example, a battery
with an average of 50% DoD will last twice as long or more
as an 80% DoD; a 20% DoD battery will last five times longer than
a 50% DoD. For example, golf cart batteries will average 225 cycles at 80% DoD and increase to 750 cycles at 50% DoD. Try to avoid DoD that is less than 10% or greater than 80%. Industrial traction and stationary deep cycle batteries are designed for 80% DoD and most marine an RV deep cycle batteries are designed for 50% DoD.. 7.6. When in storage, recharging when the state-of-charge drops to 80% or below will prevent lead sulfation. 7.7. Maintaining
the correct state-of-charge while in storage, electrolyte levels,
tightening loose hold-down clamps and terminals, and removing corrosion
is normally the only preventive maintenance required for a deep 7.8. Avoid “opportunity charging." Size
the battery so that there is a minimum 7.9. Never
discharge below 10.5 volts.. 8. WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF PREMATURE 8.1. Loss of electrolyte due to heat or overcharging. 8.4. Old age (positive plate shedding) or “Sludging”. 8.5. Excessive vibration. 8.6. Freezing or high temperatures. 8.7. Using
tap water which causes calcium sulfation. 8.8. Positive
grid corrosion or growth due to high temperatures. 8.9.
Fast recharging at rates greater than C/10.. 9. HOW CAN I STORE BATTERIES? Batteries naturally self-discharge 1% to 15% per month while in storage,
and lead sulfation will start occurring when the state-of-charge
drops below 80%. If
left in a vehicle, disconnecting the negative cable will reduce the level of discharge by eliminating the parasitic load. Cold will slow the self-discharge process down and heat will speed it up. Use the following six simple steps to 9.1.
Physically inspect for damaged cases, remove any corrosion, and clean and dry the battery tops. 9.2. Fully recharge the
batteries. 9.3. Check the electrolyte levels and add distilled
water as required, but 9.4. Store in a cold dry place, but not below 32° F (0° C). 9.5. Depending on the ambient temperature and self-discharge rate, periodically test the state-of-charge using the procedure in Section 4. When the state-of-charge drops below 80%, recharge the batteries using the procedures in Section 6. An alternative would be to connect an automatic voltage regulated, solar panel or “smart trickle” charger to “float” batteries. Based on the manufacturer's recommendations, use an automatic or smart charger that has been manufactured for this purpose and battery type. You may also use a setting of 13.02 to 13.8 volts for wet batteries and 13.2 to 14.1 volts for VRLA batteries, compensated for temperature, and the correct automatic or smart charger that has been designed not to overcharge the batteries. The following graph from Concorde demonstrates
the effect of temperature on float voltage requirements. TEMPERATURE IN DEGREES C (F) 9.6. Equalize only wet (flooded) or AGM batteries, when you remove the batteries from storage; use the procedure in Section 6.. 10. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MYTHS ABOUT BATTERIES? 10.1. Storing a
battery on a concrete floor will discharge them. A hundred years ago when battery cases were made of porous materials, such as wood, storing batteries on concrete floors would accelerate their discharge. Modern battery cases, made of polypropylene or hard rubber, which are better sealed, so external leakage, causing discharge, is no longer a problem. However, the top of the battery must be clean and dry.
Temperature stratification within large batteries could accelerate the internal “ leakage” or self-discharge if the battery is sitting on a cold
floor in a warm room or is installed in a submarine. 10.2. Driving a
car will fully recharge a battery. Some of factors affecting a car charging system's ability to charge a battery are: how much current from the alternator is diverted to the battery to charge it, how long the current is available and the temperature. Generally, idling the engine or on short “stop-and-go trips” during bad or hot weather or at night will not recharge a battery. A long daytime trip in warm weather should recharge a battery. 10.3. A battery will not explode. Recharging a wet lead-acid battery normally produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses. While spark retarding vent caps help prevent battery explosions, they occur when jumping, connecting or disconnecting charger or battery cables, and starting the engine. While not fatal, battery explosions cause thousands of eye and burn injuries each year. When battery explosions occur when starting an engine, here is the usual sequence of events: One or more cells had a high concentration of hydrogen gas (above 4.1%) because the vent cap was clogged or a defective
valve did not release the gas. The electrolyte levels fell below the top of the plates due to high under hood temperatures, overcharging, or poor maintenance. A low resistive bridge or “treeing” formed between the top of the plates such that when the current started to flow, it caused an arc or spark in one of the cells. That combination of events ignites the gas, blows the battery case cover off and spatters electrolyte all over the engine compartment. The largest number of battery explosions while starting an engine occurs in hot climates. When
an explosion happens, thoroughly rinse the engine compartment with
water, and then wash it with a solution of one-pound baking soda to one gallon of warm water to neutralize the residual battery acid. Then thoroughly rewash the engine compartment with water. Periodic preventive maintenance (please see Section 7.7.), working on batteries in well ventilated areas or using Valve Regulated Lead Acid (AGM or gel cell) type batteries can significantly reduce the possibility of battery 10.4. A battery will not lose its charge sitting in storage. Depending on the type of battery, it has natural self-discharge or
internal electrochemical “leakage” at a 1% to
15% rate per month that will cause it to become sulfated
and fully discharged over time. Higher temperatures accelerate
this process. A battery stored at 95° F (35° C) will self discharge twice as fast than one at 75° F (23.9° C). (Please see 10.5. Maintenance free batteries never require maintenance. In hot climates, water in the electrolyte is “decomposed” due to the high temperatures and normal charging of a wet maintenance free battery. Water can also be lost due to excessive charging voltage or charging currents. Non-sealed batteries are recommended in hot climates so they can be refilled with distilled water when this occurs. Please see Section 7.7. for other preventive maintenance that should be performed on “maintenance free” batteries. 10.6. Test the alternator by disconnecting the battery with the
engine A battery as like a voltage stabilizer or filter to the pulsating
DC produced by the charging system. Disconnecting a battery
while the engine is running can destroy sensitive electronic
components, for example, emission computer, audio system,
cell phone, alarm system, etc., or even the charging system
itself. These damages can occur because the voltage can
rise to 40 volts or more. In the 1970s, removing a battery terminal
was an accepted practice to test charging systems of that era. That
is not the case today. Just say NO if anyone suggests this. 10.7. On really cold days turn your headlights on to “warm up” the battery up before starting your engine. While there is no doubt that turning on your headlights will increase
the current flow in a car battery; it also consumes valuable
capacity that could be used to start the engine. Therefore,
this is not recommended. For extremely cold temperatures,
externally powered battery warmers, battery blankets, or
engine block heaters are highly recommended. AGM and Ni- Cad
batteries perform better in extremely cold temperatures than wet cell 10.8. Batteries last longer in hot climates than in cold ones. Batteries last approximately two thirds as long in hot climates as cold ones. Heat kills batteries, especially sealed wet lead acid batteries. 10.9. Deep cycle batteries have a
memory. Lead acid
deep cycle batteries do not have the so called “memory effect” that first generation Ni-Cad batteries have.. 11. HOW LONG WILL A DEEP CYCLE BATTERY LAST
ON A Discharging, like charging, depends on a number of factors such as: the initial state-of-charge, depth-of-discharge, age, capacity of the battery, load and temperature. For a fully charged battery at 70° F (21.1° C), the ampere-hour rating divided by the load in amps will provide the estimated life of that cycle. For example, a new, 72-ampere-hour battery with a 10-amp load should last
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